Oregon – 2023 (Pt. I)
OREGON REPORT: Oregon Regains Its Rhythm in 2023
by: JEREMY YOUNG
A Deep Dive into the 2023 Vintage Across the Willamette Valley
After reviewing hundreds of wines from across Oregon this year (2022s and 2023s mostly), one thing is clear: the 2023 vintage marks a turning point for the Willamette Valley. It’s a vintage of poise and one that balances freshness and fruit density, elegance and texture. For those who have followed Oregon’s swings between cool restraint and ripened exuberance over the past few years, 2023 feels like the recalibration we’ve been waiting for.
This report draws from months of tastings across the Willamette Valley’s core AVAs (Eola-Amity Hills, Dundee Hills, Yamhill-Carlton, McMinnville, and Ribbon Ridge) alongside a handful of releases from neighboring regions. While Pinot Noir and Chardonnay continue to anchor Oregon’s identity, the real revelation of 2023 might be the quiet rise of Riesling, led by producers who are giving the grape new vitality and voice in this cooler, balanced vintage.
The 2023 Growing Season
The 2023 growing season started slowly, with a cool and delayed budbreak that had many growers recalling vintages from the early 2010s. That late start compressed the bloom-to-veraison window to roughly 40–45 days, unusually short for the Willamette Valley, but it didn’t hinder the crop’s evenness or quality.
Summer brought steady warmth without extremes. The absence of major heat spikes allowed the vines to develop flavor depth while preserving bright natural acidity. Even in warmer pockets, nights remained cool, helping to maintain balance in the grapes and providing winemakers with fruit of superb phenolic maturity and low disease pressure.
Harvest arrived about a week earlier than in 2022, and yields came in slightly below average, with small, concentrated berries across most AVAs. Across the board, wines show clarity, density, and composure…the kind of chemistry that winemakers dream about: moderate alcohols, vibrant acids, and clean fruit with excellent skin-to-juice ratios.
For the first time in several years, there was no smoke taint, no excessive rain, and no major heat stress. Oregon had the rare gift of a “textbook” growing year, and it shows in the glass.
The Willamette Valley: Where 2023 Found Its Voice
Eola-Amity Hills: If 2023 had a signature AVA, Eola-Amity might be it. The corridor’s wind influence was a defining factor, keeping daytime temperatures moderate and delivering high-toned, mineral-driven wines with precision and nerve. Pinot Noir here is compact and coiled, less fruit-saturated than the 2021s, but built for longevity. Tannins are taut, acidity vivid, and aromatics layered with dried herbs, cherry skin, and wet stone. Chardonnay from this area is crystalline and focused, marked by saline energy and crushed rock minerality.
Dundee Hills: Always a benchmark, the Dundee Hills saw a beautifully even flowering period in 2023, yielding balanced clusters and refined ripeness. These Pinots lean toward the classic Dundee red-fruit spectrum – think wild strawberry, raspberry, and rose petal – underpinned by fine, chalky tannins and subtle baking spice. Alcohol levels sit comfortably around 13.8%, with a sense of plushness that doesn’t tip into opulence. Chardonnay shines too, brimming with lemon zest and saline brightness, offering both weight and lift.
Yamhill-Carlton: Defined by its marine sediment soils, Yamhill-Carlton produced brooding, structured Pinots in 2023, wines of darker fruit and savory depth. Blueberry, black cherry, and tea leaf tones dominate, framed by tannins that promise long life in the cellar. These wines show the vineyard’s muscle, but in 2023 that muscle feels disciplined. Producers with deep-rooted old vines seem to have thrived especially well this year.
McMinnville: Often a later-ripening area, McMinnville delivered some of the most textural wines of the vintage. Its basalt-rich soils impart a ferrous, volcanic intensity, dense yet lifted. Pinots here carry notes of black raspberry, plum skin, and graphite. But perhaps most exciting are the Rieslings, which bristle with tension, citrus oil, and crushed slate minerality. McMinnville is quickly becoming an unsung home for the next generation of Oregon whites.
Ribbon Ridge: Tiny but mighty, Ribbon Ridge was another standout. The 2023 wines are taut and tightly woven, with saline edges and a quiet intensity that unfolds slowly in the glass. Expect red raspberry, forest floor, and subtle umami notes, supported by energetic acid and refined texture. These are wines to watch for cellaring and patience.
The Varietal Landscape: Structure, Clarity, and a Rising Star
Pinot Noir: 2023 Oregon Pinot Noir strikes an ideal middle ground between the freshness of 2019 and the depth of 2016. Aromatics lean toward red cherry, cranberry, and orange peel, often laced with savory herbs and floral lift. The tannins are incredibly fine-grained, providing framework without aggression, and acids hum in quiet balance beneath the fruit. Alcohol levels are moderate (13.1–13.8%), and overall structure suggests exceptional longevity, with many wines destined to evolve gracefully over the next decade or more.
Chardonnay: Simply put, 2023 might be Oregon’s most complete Chardonnay vintage to date. Extended hang times allowed full flavor development while maintaining bracing acidity. The wines are electric yet textural, showing lemon curd, white peach, and flinty reduction in equal measure. Winemakers across the valley appear to be leaning into less oak and longer lees aging…choices that amplify texture and terroir over toast and butter. These are Chardonnays of real depth and focus.
Riesling: The Comeback Story. While Pinot Noir and Chardonnay continue to define Oregon, Riesling is quietly stealing the spotlight. Producers like Martin Woods, Trisaetum, and Brooks are proving that this grape can thrive in Oregon’s evolving climate.
The 2023 vintage gave Riesling everything it needed: cool nights for acid retention, warm days for slow ripening, and a clean harvest window for perfect fruit. The resulting wines range from bone dry to delicately off-dry, but all share striking clarity, lime zest precision, and mouthwatering minerality. These are not nostalgic throwbacks, they’re thoroughly modern, finely tuned, and world-class. The top bottlings will easily age 10–15 years, shedding youthful citrus for honeyed depth and crushed stone nuance over time.
Market and Value Context
The 2023 Oregon harvest came in about 5% lower in volume than the prior year, but the overall crop value rose roughly 6% due to both smaller yields and higher grape prices. Chardonnay and Riesling plantings continue to expand, signaling both winemaker confidence and shifting consumer tastes.
For wine lovers, this is an ideal time to explore Oregon. The 2023s are transparent, terroir-driven, and balanced, making them approachable yet young and structured for the long term. Whether you’re chasing single-vineyard Pinot, a nervy Chardonnay, or a crystalline Riesling, this vintage offers the rare balance of pleasure and precision that defines great years.
Closing Thoughts: A Foundational Vintage
The 2023 vintage isn’t about flash. It’s about fundamentals – clean fruit, balanced chemistry, and honest expression of place. It reminds us that Oregon’s greatness lies not in excess, but in equilibrium. In a decade’s time, when we look back at Oregon’s modern evolution, 2023 may stand beside 2019 and 2016 as a defining benchmark for balance, a vintage that reconnected winemakers to their sites and reminded the rest of us why we fell in love with Oregon wine in the first place.
